Brake fluid is nasty stuff. So I was quite determined to bleed brakes a different way from my previous method. The old way was a system where you pressurize this tank that' basically one of those home bug sprayer things and the hose attaches to a plate you hook onto the master. Usually you blow a lot of fluid all over the place trying to get a seal on the master and then you go around to each wheel and crack the bleeder till the bubbles stop. But then you run out of pressure or fluid in the tank before the bubbles are gone.I have a helper who could pump the pedal for me if I wanted to do it the really old fashioned way, but then you have issues there too.
Now I have a new system that you attach to the bleeder at each wheel and push fluid in reverse up to the master. Bubbles want to go from the lowest point to the highest point anyway so you are working with them instead of against them, in theory. So today I got to try it out and at first, I was taken aback... all these tubes and attachments and fittings... OMG! But it's actually quite simple once you determine which pieces you need to use for your car... and there are very few.
But before bleeding, I had several things to do. I had to replace the radiator hoses I had ripped out while installing the right brake line, and I also had to get vacuum line run to the booster and tank. I kept the old hose from the engine to the check valve but I put in a fresh check valve. I used PCV valve hose and a tee to branch off from the boost to the tank.
So then I bled the system starting with the right, as it was the longest line in the front circuit. (I can't get to the back wheels til I can pull the car out of the garage.) Right away I realized I had some loose fittings in the system I had not tightened down enough. A quick turn of the wrench and all was well again. I did the left. Nice and smooth. Went back to check the right and... the flare fitting at the hard line where it joins the flex hose was seeping. Tightened, re-bled. Still seeped. Loosened, tightened, re-bled, better but no cigar. Unscrewed the fitting completely... this had been my very first flare ever, and it may not be quite perfect. I wanted to try to save it and avoid having to grind off the flare and re-do it. Thinking perhaps a bit of grit is contributing to the issue, I cleaned it with spray brake cleaner before screwing it back together. Used a bigger wrench to tighten down and gave it a last big grunt to get it tight. Re-bled... not seeping anymore!
Somewhere along the way while I was bleeding, the UPS man delivered the new front wheels... chrome smoothies... And with fingers crossed I opened one box and gingerly tried it on for size. It scrapes the caliper! DAMN! I compare the new smoothie to the OEM Buick wheel that does not scrape and I can not see any difference with the naked eye. Backspacing looks the same, width is the same. But the smoothie scrapes and the OEM does not. I look at the calipers and I can see what's going on. The caliper curves to fit inside the wheel except at the very outer ends where it sort of kicks back out. It doesn't look to me like there is any reason those "ears" need to be there. I did a little Googling on the subject and found another case where someone had to grind something similar off to get their wheels to fit. I decided to try a little re-engineering on the left caliper to see what I could do. Presto! I didn't have to do much and now there is no scraping. I will grind the right side tomorrow and then I can take the tires and wheels over to Western to get them swapped.
I did start the engine up and tried the pedal, even though only the front circuit has been bled. It feels like there is good assist from the booster and decent pedal... the travel should be less once the backs are bled but it's not too bad now. This whole expensive mess might actually work out well!
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